FAUX TIN TYPE TUTORIAL

I have had several people ask me to do a tutorial on the faux tin type photographs that I have used on a couple of my recent Simon Says Stamp and Show challenge pieces.  They are basically a transfer on to metal technique.  These faux tin types are very simple to make and a lot of fun...and what a difference they can make on a vintage piece!  So...here we go....

This is a technique taught by Ranger Designer, Claudine Hellmuth.  A video of this technique is on Ranger's blog.  My twist is that I am using Ranger's Metal Foil Sheet instead of a piece of metal flashing or a more substantial metal surface.

You will need the following supplies for this:  a Non Stick Craft Sheet, about an inch wide paint brush, a jar of Matte Multi Medium, a piece of Ranger's Metal Foil Tape Sheet, a Bone Folder (for burnishing), and a photograph.

I have the best results when using a black and white photograph that is printed on an ink jet printer using inexpensive copy paper.  If you want to use a color picture, I would suggest that you use one that has already muted colors, not bright vivid ones.  It just doesn't look as "vintage".  Take a color photograph and photo edit it to black and white.  Another thing to remember is that when you are doing a transfer technique, the image will be REVERSED on the metal.  So, if you are using an image that has text or writing on it, you will need to reverse the picture BEFORE you print it out.  That way, the text will be correct on your transferred image.  Size the photograph to whatever size you need.  Cut out the picture, leaving a little area around the picture to hold on to while you're adding the Matte Multi Medium.

Work on a Non Stick Craft Sheet or a piece of wax paper to coat your picture with Matte Multi Medium.  Be sure that the surface of your metal foil sheet and the surface of your picture are clean.  Dip the paint brush into a jar of Matte Multi Medium and brush the medium onto the picture surface.  Be sure that all of the picture is completely covered, including all of the edges, with a layer of Matte Multi Medium that is about the consistency of spreading mayonnaise on a piece of bread. 

When you've finished that, put your brush back into the Matte Multi Medium or into a bowl of water to keep the brush from beginning to harden.  Next, pick the printed photograph up by the excess paper you left around the edges and lay it face down onto the shiny side of the metal foil sheet.  Carefully run your fingers over the back side of the photograph to make sure that it is completely making contact with the metal foil sheet.  Use the bone folder to LIGHTLY burnish the photograph on to the metal foil sheet.

Now you wait....until the Matte Multi Medium is completely dry.  This might take a few hours.  You can also leave the picture dried on the metal foil sheet indefinitely.  That doesn't hurt it at all.  You just need to be sure that the paper is dry before you do the next step. ( I like to make up several of these at at time for future use.)

When the paper is completely dry, begin spritzing it with water from a Mister Bottle.  Lay the picture on a flat surface so you won't wrinkle or damage the metal foil sheet as you are working to remove the paper.

Begin GENTLY rubbing the center of the paper in a circular motion.  Then the magic begins to happen!  You will begin peeling away the pulp of the paper to reveal the image that has now been transferred to the metal foil sheet.

 

Continue spritzing with water and gently rubbing the paper off of the metal foil surface.  I like to have my paper fairly wet when working with it....not soaking wet, but wet enough that the paper peels up fairly easily.  This step takes quite a while to do but the results are so worth it.

 

Even after you think you have all of the paper rubbed off, there will still be little fuzzies of pulp that sometimes are not visible until the metal foil sheet is dry.  Spritz the image again and gently wipe over all of it with your fingers to remove those pesky little hanger oners.  I also like to spritz the picture with water and use a Cut N Dry Pen Nib to GENTLY rub over the surface of the photgraph to remove more of the little fuzzies.  Then let the image dry.  I have even used my heat tool to lightly help along the drying process...but remember...the back side of the metal foil sheet is adhesive.  Don't do extensive drying with the heat tool because you could damage the adhesive side of the sheet.

Sometimes part of the original photograph will also come up with your paper peeling.  As you can see in this picture, there are a couple of little areas where the shiny tin is showing through.  This usually happens when you get too aggressive with rubbing off the paper but sometimes it just happens.  If you don't mind the shiny showing through, just leave it.  But, you can also add a darker ink to those areas and feather them out to resemble an old tin type photograph that has dark spots from age.

Now that your faux tin type is ready, you can finish it out however you choose.  Sometimes I like to lightly brush over my tin types (especially around the perimeter of the metal) with Distress Inks to age them even more.  I particularly like Gathered Twig.  It adds such a rich, warm sepia tone to the picture.  Add a touch of Black Soot around the edges and it really begins to take on an aged look.  Then peel off the paper backing of the adhesive sheet and affix it to whatever surface you choose.  Use them as is or showcase them in a frame made from Tim's Vintage Cabinet Card die cut and the Mini Cabinet Card Die Cut used together to create a frame.  They look amazing!

I have also attached the foil metal sheet to a piece of Grungeboard or chipboard and Die Cut it (example: Tim Holtz' Mini Cabinet Card Die Cut) prior to starting the transferring process.  It works fine that way as well.  If you get the Grungeboard or the chipboard wet, it will eventually dry out or you can use a heat tool to help the drying process.

If you've got some time this weekend, try this technique.  I promise you...you will love the results!